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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Waterford,Wi
    Posts
    1,266

    Default 2017 ElTigre secondary clutch

    I apologize, I may have posted about this last season. last season while riding through Porcupine Mtn park I started to hear a noise, thought I was starting to lose a belt, was close enough to silver city was just going to check then, well the noise turned into a chirp and then a BANG! Outer face of my secondary came off, belt wrapped around primary. Luckily the belt guard did its job and there was no extensive damage as I was going about 60 mph at the time, fount all the parts and other than one broken shim, reassembled it got on our way and rode it for duration of trip without any issues. My question is, there was no Loctite on bolt that retains secondary, I know on my 2009 F8 you are not supposed to put Loctite on bolt as drive case vents through it. I know the 2 machines have 2 completely different drive cases so should there be or can you use Loctite on bolt on Eltigre? Has this ever happened to anyone else? I looked as close as I could didn't see any other damage, spline seemed ok, and even with missing shim deflection was still good and like I said it stayed on for duration of trip using only the tools that come on sled (meaning never retorqued it)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    North Twin Cities
    Posts
    1,253

    Default

    Bummer deal. It happens.
    That bolt should not need loctite. The location/configuration also makes it difficult to apply heat if you need to remove the bolt. Torque spec is high at 60 lbs recommended. I mention that being a high number because the bolt will stretch when you start getting over that spec. In general, there isn't often a need to remove that bolt. Deflection is primarily done with the adjuster screw. The shim between sheaves can be one of three different thickness sizes. I do not change that shim when using stock belts. I use the shim size that works best with deflection before using the adjuster. No need to change the shim if deflection is close.
    It is rare to damage splines on the jackshaft before the clutch. You mention the spline seemed OK. Did you mean the jackshaft or clutch sheaves? The splines on the clutch are prone to damage if that bolt is loose allowing the clutch to move.
    BTW, you can get pretty close to torque spec trail side with that bolt. Put an average rider on the seat and crank on that bolt. When the sled start to move backward, you are close.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Waterford,Wi
    Posts
    1,266

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by favoritos View Post
    Bummer deal. It happens.
    That bolt should not need loctite. The location/configuration also makes it difficult to apply heat if you need to remove the bolt. Torque spec is high at 60 lbs recommended. I mention that being a high number because the bolt will stretch when you start getting over that spec. In general, there isn't often a need to remove that bolt. Deflection is primarily done with the adjuster screw. The shim between sheaves can be one of three different thickness sizes. I do not change that shim when using stock belts. I use the shim size that works best with deflection before using the adjuster. No need to change the shim if deflection is close.
    It is rare to damage splines on the jackshaft before the clutch. You mention the spline seemed OK. Did you mean the jackshaft or clutch sheaves? The splines on the clutch are prone to damage if that bolt is loose allowing the clutch to move.
    BTW, you can get pretty close to torque spec trail side with that bolt. Put an average rider on the seat and crank on that bolt. When the sled start to move backward, you are close.
    favoritos, thank you for insight, the spline I was referring to are the ones on the clutch, I didn't visually see damage, my thought this year was to pull it, look closer at it, and from what you are saying I will replace the broken shim washer. As far as tightening it, what you stated is exactly what I did. As far as spline damage I am assuming to look for excessive wear from running loose, I have no idea how long I rode it that way before I started hearing noise, Im surprised I didn't noticed any performance issue or pulsating feeling in drive as result of, so there may be damage, I will not apply Loctite if not necessary and check torque before season, It was quite the BANG! I gave it a little throttle when it happened and when I saw the tach move and engine sounded ok I was releived!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    McHenry, IL
    Posts
    39

    Default

    favoritos knows these sleds. His advice is always excellent.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Waterford,Wi
    Posts
    1,266

    Default

    Thank you again favoritos! will reach out once I get at it and inspect further if I have any further questions, Thank You!

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